Method of creating, making, and duplicating garment designs



March 10, 1%36. J. BONANNO METHOD OF CREATING, MAKING, AND DUPLICATING GARMENT DESIGNS Filed June 12, 1934 r 2 Sheets-Sheet l arch 10, 1936. BQNANNQ 2,033,1?6

METHOD OF CREATING, MQKING, AND DUPLIOATING GARMENT DESIGNS Filed June 12,1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 $125 Z0 7 IA 11 INVENTOR ATI' RNEYS Patented Mar. 10, 1936 UNITED STATES LIETHOD OF CREATING, MAKING, AND DUPLICATING GARMENT DESIGNS John Bonanno, New York, N. Y.

Application June 12, 1934, Serial No; 730,276

8 Claims.

The present invention relates to a method of creating and duplicating garment designs and making a permanent record for ready duplication thereof and has for a general object the provision of such a method whereby material and time are saved and duplication is more accurately and efiiciently possible.

A more specific object of the invention is the provision of such a method whereby an original design is created or a design is copied with the use of design material having orienting characters thereon which define multi-directional lines having a predetermined directional relationship with regard to the warp, woof and nap of the garment material whereby the resultant design parts bear a permanent record of the design which may be used with or without similarly marked pattern paper for ready duplication of the designed garment, and the necessity of making a duplicate sample and separate operations for the formation of a pattern are eliminated.

Other objects of the invention will in part-be obvious and will in part appear hereinafter.

The invention accordingly comprises the several steps and the relation of one or more of such steps with respect to each of the others thereof, which will be exemplified in the method hereinafter disclosed, and the scope of the invention will be indicated in the claims.

30 For a fuller understanding of the nature and objects of the invention reference should be had to the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in

which:

Fig. 1 is a front view of a designed garment in half form, formed with the use of design material in accordance with the present invention;

Figs. 2 and 3 are side and rear views respectively of the structure depicted in Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged view of the front design part formed from the design material provided with the orienting characters;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the lay-out of the designed garment showing the use of the design parts in connection with similarly marked paper; and

Fig. 6 is a front View of the completed garment.

Prior to the present invention, in accordance with the usual method of creating and duplicating original garment designs a designer with the aid of a samplemaker draped on a dummy form or a living model, trial parts of relatively cheap material, preferably unbleached muslin. This was usually done in half form to save material and labor. :Asthe-formation of the design progressed sketch notes were made to aid in subsequently making the original garment. The completed design, similar to that depicted in Figs. '1, 2 and 3, was then taken apart and with the use of these parts and the sketch notes the samplemaker attempted to duplicate the design with the use of garment material, cutting complete oversized parts and draping on the dummy or model in a manner similar to that followed in creating the design. After this original sample 10 had been completed a patternmaker usually made all the diiferent parts of a pattern from the originalsample, then cut a duplicate sample and with the aid of the samplemaker corrected the pattern to insure that the warp, woof and nap 15 in the various parts would bring out the desired effects in the duplicate sample as shown-in the original, and so that cost of material "and labor for manufacturing of sold garments could be carefully figured. In making the pattern the 0 patternmaker used as the only guide the finished original sample similar to that shown in Fig. 6, and since the grain or warp in a garment part frequently looks much different in the part when laid out by itself than when assembled in a gar ment, some of theseparts had to be tried out by him before he cut the duplicate sample. After corrections were madein the pattern it was then used for duplication.

Much of the waste of materiaL-time spent and other difiiculties attendant upon the practice of such a method is eliminated by the practice of the present invention. The original design or, when duplicating, a copy is worked out, preferably in half form, on a dummy or model with the use of any relatively cheap fabric material, such as unbleached muslin, to be called the design fabric-material. This fabric material is provided with orienting characters of a particular typesothat the directions in which run the warp,-woof and nap of the material to be used in the garment are indicated. When the completed design is taken apart duplication and the formation of pattern pieces having similar orienting characters are simple matters.

Referring to the drawings, like numerals refer to like parts throughout. I On a dummy form H] are draped the various design parts which in the dress design shown by way of example are, front part 1!, center front part 12, front skirt part l3,-back yoke part I4, center back part l5, and back skirt part I6. The'design fabric material used in the formation -of design parts is provided with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface by following the marked outlines.

thereof to define multi-directional lines having a predetermined directional relationship with regard to the warp, woof and nap of the material to be used in the formation of the garment hereinafter called Garment Material. The orienting characters, as shown in Fig. 4, preferably consist of parallel rows of dots l'l--l'l spaced an inch apart with the alternate dots provided with relatively long dashes or lines l8-l8 to indicate the direction of the warp and relatively short dashes or lines |9-l9 to indicate the direction of the woof. The bias direction is indicated by the rows of dots which are not provided with dashes l8 and I9.

After the design has been completed in half form as shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the'completed design is taken apart and the design parts having orienting characters thereon are used for duplication of the design and in the formation of pattern pieces.

In accordance with the preferred mode of operation garment material 20 is laid out as shown in Fig. 5 and overlaid with a strip of marked paper 2| bearing orienting characters similar to those on the design fabric material and hereinafter generically termed pattern paper.

The parts H to Hi inclusive being in half form are laid out upon the pattern paper, the outlines thereof being indicated in Fig. 5 by heavy lines. The paper and material may be out along the outer outlines of the parts and the parts then turned over to the positions indicated in dotted lines, the paper and material then again being out along the outer outlines indicated by dotted lines to form the parts or pieces in full. As an alternative the outer outlines may be marked on the paper, the parts in half form then being turned over and the outer outlines again marked on the paper and the parts in full then being out As a further alternative the paper and material may be doubled along the center line of a piece or part as represented by the inner margin of a part in half form and the double thicknesses of paper and material out along the outer outlines of the part in half form directly to form parts in full form. By the inner margin of a part in half form is meant the straight line margin formed alongthe median line of the dummy or model and by the outer outlines thereof is meant all other marginal lines of the part in half form. The half formation in creating and making the garment design is compensated for by such procedures.

The samplemaker who is laying and cutting out the parts of the garment then freely marks and cuts or directly cuts out the tie parts 22, 22, the sleeve band parts 23, 23, the neck band parts 24, 24, the back part 25 and belt part 26 to complete the parts of the garment.

Some slight corrections are found to be necessary, for example, the front yoke parts2l, 27 are cut away from the front part II so that labor operations may be simplified. Some slight corrections in the other parts also are found to be necessary such as, for example, those indicated in dash lines 28 on the parts l3 and I6 to adjust the length of the skirt, and those indicated by similar lines on the parts 22, 23 and 24. In the actual construction of the original design shown in completed formin Fig. 6, these were the only adjustments found to be necessary in forming the parts thereof with the use of the design parts prepared and used in the manner indicated.

When the paper has been cut up as indicated and the pieces corrected, these pattern pieces are saved for duplication of the garments. From these pieces, pattern pieces for the various sizes of garments can easily be prepared, each pattern piece bearing a desired history of the design so that proper duplications can be made readily.

It is to be understood that the dress depicted is shown only by way of example and that the present method may be used to advantage in designing and duplicating various types of garments such as dresses, coats, suits, etc. Furthermore, it is obvious that the present invention is not restricted to a preferred type of duplication depicted in Fig. 5 wherein a master pattern is prepared at the same time as is the original sample, but that original samples may be readily formed with the use of the design parts alone, or that master patterns may be formed from the design parts without the simultaneous formation of the original sample. However, the use of the preferred method saves time and material while dispensing with the cutting and formation of patterns and the cutting of duplicate samples to insure correct patterns since the master pattern can be made. simultaneously with the original sample by the samplemaker or designer. V I

It is to be understood that where a predetermined directional relationship with regard to the nap of garment material is referred to, reference is made to garment material wherein the nap lies smoothly in one direction. This, of course, does not exclude the use of other garment materials from the scope of the present invention where a predetermined directional relationship withregard to the warp and woof may be had.

Since certain changes may be made in carrying out the above method without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that all mat-- ter contained in the above descripion shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and a permanent record for ready duplication comprising providing fabric material with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof to define multi-directional lines having a predetermined directional relationship and forming design partstherefrom whereby said orienting characters have a predetermined directional re-- lationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof and nap of the material to be used in the formation of the garment with the use of the design parts which by virtue of the orienting characters bear a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the gar: ment material.

2. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and a permanent record for ready duplication comprising providing fabric material with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof to define -multi-directional lines having a predetermined directional relationship, forming therefrom and assembling on a dummy or model design parts in half form whereby saidorientingcharacters have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warpQwoof and'nap of the material to be used in the garment, and forming a sample garment from garment material with the use of said design parts while compensating for the half formation of the designto obtain the garmentand the parts thereof in full form, said design parts by virtue of the orienting characters bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the garment material to allow formation therefrom of pattern pieces or duplication of the garment.

3. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and pattern pieces for duplication comprising providing fabric material with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof to define multidirectional lines having a predetermined directional relationship, forming design parts therefrom whereby said orienting characters have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woo-f and nap of the material to be used in the garment, and forming pattern pieces for duplication of the designed garment from pattern paper bearing similar characters, said pattern pieces thereby bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the garment material.

4. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and pattern pieces for duplication comprising providing fabric material with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof to define multidirectional lines having a predetermined direc tional relationship, forming design parts therefrom whereby said orienting characters have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof and nap of the material to be used in the garment, laying out the garment material with pattern paper bearing similar characters overlying the garment material, arranging the design parts on the paper, and cutting the garment material and paper in accordance with the outlines of the design parts to form garment parts for the garment and pattern pieces for duplication of the designed garment, said pattern pieces thereby bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, Woof, nap and figures of the garment material.

5. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and pattern pieces for duplication comprising providing fabric material with a plurality of dots distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof, said dots being arranged in parallel rows running both transversely of and longitudinally of said design material with the transverse rows disposed at right angles to the longitudinal rows and distinguished therefrom by differentiating characters to define multi-directional lines, forming design parts therefrom whereby said rows of dots and differentiating characters have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof and nap of the material to be used in the garment, and forming pattern pieces for duplication of the designed garment from pattern paper bearing similar characters, said pattern pieces thereby bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the garment material.

6. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and pattern pieces for duplication comprising providing fabric material with a plurality of dots distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof, said dots being arranged in parallel rows running both transversely of and longitudinally of said design material with the transverse rows disposed at right angles to the longitudinal rows and distinguished therefrom by differentiating characters to define multi-directional lines, forming design parts therefrom whereby said rows of dots and. differentiating characters have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof and nap of the material to be used in the garment, laying out the garment material with pattern paper bearing similar characters overlying the garment material, arranging the design parts on the paper, and cutting the garment material and paper in accordance with the outlines of the design parts to form garment parts and pattern pieces for duplication of the designed garment, said pattern pieces thereby bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the garment material.

7. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and pattern pieces for duplication comprising providing fabric material with a plurality of dots distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof, said dots being arranged in parallel rows running both transversely of and longitudinally of said design material with the transverse rows distinguished from the longitudinal rows by dashes to define multi-directional lines, forming design parts therefrom whereby said rows of dots and dashes have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof and nap of the cloth to be used in the garment, and forming pattern pieces for duplication of the designed garment from pattern paper bearing similar characters, said pattern pieces thereby bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the garment material.

8. The method of creating, duplicating and making garment designs and pattern pieces for duplication comprising providing fabric material with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface thereof to define multi-directional lines having a predetermined directional relationship, forming therefrom and assembling on a dummy or model design parts in half form whereby said orienting characters have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof and nap of the material to be used in the garment, laying out the garment material with pattern paper bearing similar characters overlying the garment material, arranging the design parts on the paper, compensating for the half formation of the design to obtain parts in full form, and cutting the garment material and paper in accordance with the outlines of the design parts in full to form garment parts for the garment and pattern pieces for duplication of the designed garment, said pattern pieces thereby bearing a permanent record of the design with regard to one or more of the features warp, woof, nap and figures of the garment material.

JOHN BONANNO. 

